Dyeing

A Dye is a colored  substance that as affinity to the substrate to which it is applied. Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns and fabrics. Dyeing is broadly classified into Natural dyes and Synthetic dyes.

Natural Dyes: The majority of natural dyes are from plant sources- roots, berries, bark, leaves, vegetables, flowers, fruits, insects and minerals. Natural dyes were not easily available as the extraction process was very difficult. The dyes were very costly and the color fastness to these dyes are poor.

Synthetic Dyes: Synthetic dyes are the chemical compound molecules possessing the two radicals chromophores and auxochromes. Synthetic dyes quickly replaced the traditional natural dyes. These dyes are cheaper and have good color fastness.

DYE TYPES:

-Direct dyes are so called since these dyes can be easily applied on cellulosic fibers like cotton, viscose and rayon from simple solution in water.
-Acid dyes  are water soluble anionic dyes that are applied to the fibers such as silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic fibers using neutrals to acid dye baths.
-Basic dyes are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to acrylic fibers, but find some use for wool and silk.
-Mordant dyes require a mordant, which improves the fastness of the dye against water, light and perspiration. Most natural dyes are mordant dyes.The most important mordant dyes are the synthetic mordant dyes, or chrome dyes, used for wool.
-Vat dyes are essentially insoluble in water and incapable of dyeing fibres directly. The term Vat comes from the old indigo method of dyeing in a vat. they are used to dye cotton, linen,rayon,wool, silk and sometimes nylon i.e. the fibers which contain the composition of cellulose.
-Reactive dyes  are very fast to washing treatments. They have got the whole spectrum of colors. They dye cotton, viscose, linen, wool and silk.
-Disperse dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and are water insoluble. They are not soluble in any chemical. Mostly used to dye polyester fibers.
-Azoic dyes are called as napthols. The word 'Azo' means compounds which contain nitrogen. These dyes are primarily for bright red shades in dyeing and printing. They have poor fastness for rubbing.
-Sulphur dyes are two part "developed" dyes used to dye cotton with dark colors.



Tie-Dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothes which is made from knit or woven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors.It is a modern version of traditional dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world. "Tie-Dye" can also describe the resulting pattern or an item which features this pattern. Also known as Bhandhej. The technique is originally from Rajasthan and Gujarat. The colors that are traditionally used in the process are vibrant with yellow, black, red and green being the predominant ones. This technique is used on lighter shades of browns, turquoise blue and pink giving a stunning effect.

Predominantly Used patterns:

Leheria:

Leheria is a traditional style of practiced in Rajasthan, India that results in brightly colored cloth with distinctive patterns. The technique gets its name from the rajasthani word for wave because the dyeing technique is often used to produce complex wave patterns.

Technique:

The fabric is rolled diagonally from one corner to opposite selvedge, and tied at required intervals and dyed.

Direct dyed leheria

Vat dyed leheria

                                                                                                                                                                   

Chevron:

As the name indicates this pattern comes from the name itself (V shaped or intverted V shaped pattern). methods of pleating are consistent in determining stripe directions : vertical, horizontal, diagonal, chevron, or squared.

Technique:

The fabric is pleated like a Japanese fan from one side to the opposite and tied at equal intervals and dyed.

Direct dyed Chevron

Vat dyed chevron

Bhandhani:

The term Bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word banda "to tie". Bandhani is also know as Bandhej or tie dye or bandhni or bandana etc. as per the regional pronunciation.

Technique:

Desired designs are tied using beads or pulses to give the typical white and the color effect. This is the old traditional procedure.

Vat Dyed Bandhani

Acid dyed Bandhani

OTHER VARIATIONS:

 * Knotting: The fabric is folded or bought together diagonally and knotted at equal intervals and dyed.








 * Spider Web: The fabric to be dyed is picked up from the center, folded well to reduce its width and tied with thread at different levels







* Marble: The fabric is crushed like a ball and tied around it irregularly to give abstract knot all over to give a marble effect. 
                                                                              





* Trictic method: A pattern is made on the fabric and running stitch is passed through the design. Later, the threads are drawn from the point of beginning and ending and are tied tightly and dyed.







* Ruching: A long thread is kept on the fabric and rolled along with the fabric from one side to the opposite. Then hold both sides of thread and pull tightly and tie and dye.





* Wooden block: The fabric is folded like a Japanese fan from one side to the opposite and fold it into half and again to half. Put the block of thin wood on both sides and tie and dye.







* Paper Clip: Fabric is folded like a Japanese fan from one side to opposite and fold it into half and again to half. Then clip 4 corners with the paper clip and dye

* Folding: The fabric is folded in triangular shape from four corners towards the center. Then, holding from the center tie the fabric in spiderweb form and dye.






* Innovative: Considering all the techniques of tie-dye, fold the fabric in any regular or irregular pattern and tie it as desired and dye.

 

 

                      INNOVATIVE TIE DYE PATTERN CUSHION COVER

 

SPIRAL TIE DYE PATTERN DUPATTA 

CHEVRON and MARBLE TIE DYE PATTERN SCARF

BATIK PRINTING

Batik is a cloth that traditionally uses a manual wax-resist dyeing technique or similarly resistant substance such as rice paste is used to create patterns or motifs on cloth before it is dyed or colored some way. When the wax is finally removed, the untouched cloth, beneath the wax coating remains in the original color of the cloth. It is a main consuming and often painstaking process, but can produce fabrics that are both intricate and beautiful. In the older and more traditional method of creating batik, the implementing of wax is done by hand using a small spoon like instrument called "canting".

Double color
 

Single color

WOODEN BLOCK PRINTING

Printing is a part of dyeing and is generally termed as localized dyeing and is restricted to certain portions of the fabric. It is applied onto the fabric in concentrated form. Woodblock printing is a technique for printing text, images or patterns used widely throughout East Asia and originating in China in antiquity as a method of printing on textiles and later paper.

Printing on plain fabric

Printing on dyed fabric